Beware Claire’s flair.
During her six seasons on “,” Claire Underwood’s ruthless ambition manifests not just in her political power plays, but through intentional shifts in the character’s wardrobe, says seri♍es costume designer Kem꧋al Harris.
“She does this visual manipulation where she has this quiet sensuality about her,” Harris says of Claire, played by 💃Golden Globe winner Robin Wright. “She uses that as a tool, to get the best and worst out of people.”
In the show’s final season, released Friday on Netflix, fans get to see Claire in full Madam President mode, turned out in sharp dress suits befitting the most powerful person in the world. The buttoned-up, stretchy wool-crepe attire often embraces an appropriate “presidential blue,” Harris says, conveying the regal seriousness of a military commander ready for war. That marks a stark contrast to Claire’s early days as power-hungry str🀅iver nurturing the ambitions of husband Francis Underwood (Kevin Spacey).
“In Seasons 1 and 2, Francis was the political social climber; Claire was helping him behind the scenes,” says Harris, who joined the show in Season 3. At the time, Claire’s closet was fi🌜lled with understated looks from designers such as Armani, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. “She wasn’t too flashy,” Harris says. “She wasnꦛ’t quite in full White House wheeling-and-dealing mode yet.”
Things took a turn in Season 3, when Claire began her official duties as first lady. To signal this shift, Harris took style cues from screen legends such as Katharine Hepburn and Lauren Bacall. “They’re very confidౠent and always [seemed] to be in control of their careers and characters,” she says. Claire also broke from her usual muted palette with pieces in jade green and burgundy. “For once in her life, Claire actually got to be a little bit fabulous and enjoy her fashion,” Harris says.
The character’s style story deepened further in Season 4, when Claire returned to her family’s Texas ranch to run for Congress (and lock horns with her Francis-hating mother). “We actually see her break down and cry. Like, 💝whoa — Claire 💜has feelings!” Harris says. The emotional mood is reflected in Claire’s “browns, tweed fabrics, a leather riding boot — things that were reminiscent of her childhood.”
When campaigning for vice president as her husband’s running mate, Claire was back in business for Season 5. Harris embellished Claire’s ensembles with “military details” such as large gold buttons — also a nod to Claire’s desire to be commander in chief herself. “Claire was the epitome of that phrase, ‘Dress for the job you want,’” Harris says. (Spacey was fired from the show before Season 6 began filming, fol🍬lowing allegations of sexual impropriety. His character was killed off-camera.)
In the final seasonꦍ, Claire is in the Oval Office, rocking a wardrobe that’s roughly 80 percent custom-made using a mannequin built to Wright’s exact measurements, Harris says. The precise tailoring isn’t haute-y, though; the vibe is “utilitarian,” with higher neck lines and longer sleeves than in past seasons. She now also has custom presidential cuff links and sports a blunt, sleek bob.
But, rest assured, not everything has changed.
“We con♉tinued with Claire’s well-tailored, immaculate style,” Harris says, “and the wicked black pa🍃tent Christian Louboutin heels Claire is known for.”