Jennifer Gould

Jennifer Gould

Business

Sushi restaurateur swims past pandemic mayhem with thriving sales

The coronā™avirus pandemic has been strangely good to New Yorź©µk City restaurateur Garry Kanfer.

At ašŸ„ƒ time when most Big Apple eateries are struggling to są²žurvive, Manhattan sushi restaurant Kissaki has been thriving, according to Kanfer ā€” thanks to some pointed business decisions like importing fish directly from Japan, making a takeout-friendly menu, and investing in sushi-making robots.

The bold moves have paid off in spades, allowing Kanfer to open a second outpost on East 54 Street in the midst of the mayhem. He plans to launch a third locatļ·½ion iź¦“n the Hamptons on Thursday.

Itā€™s an unexpected turnaround for the Lower East Side Kissaki, which only opened its doors in January as an eatery focused on the luxurious but costly Japanese tradition of letting a chef choose the meal ā€” known as omakase. When the pandemic forced Gotham restaurants to close their dine-in operations in mid-March, Kissaki wasnā€™t exactly thšŸ e goą½§-to option for takeout.

That started to change on May 1, however, when Kissaki launched a takšŸŽ¶eout-friendly menu. In addition to omakase courses that can run as high as $147, the restaurant pivoted wiź¦th items like donburi bowls of rice and fish for $20.

By mid-May, Kissaki was raking in aroundšŸ¦¹ $55,000 a week ā€” close to whaš“ƒ²t it was earning pre-pandemic, Kanfer says.

The serial entrepreneur and former financial analyst also started sšŸŽourcing his own fish directly from Japan, which has resulted in significant cost savšŸ¼ings.

ā€œWe have bšŸ„ƒeen importing direct from Japan with no distributors. The fish leaves Tokyo, clears JFK the same night and is in the restaurants the next day ā€” much fresher than having it sit in a distributorā€™s warehouse,ā€ he says.

The blackthroat seaperch, or rosy seabass, that used to cost $65 to $85 a pound, for example, is now $25 a pound, and Kinmedai, aka splendid alfonsino, goes for $24 a pound instead of $32, whileā™ bluefin tuna is $12 a pound, down from $20. In addition, Kanfer claims he has access to some fish that distributors stopped getting during COVID-19, like Hotate scallops.

ā€œTheyā€™re not even available through distributors because of COVID. We used toą±  pay $50 for a pack of 12 pieces and now we pay around $40,ā€ he says, adding he also saves on Hokkaido uni trays.

Kissaki chef Mark Garcia prepares sushi meals for delivery.
Kissaki chef Mark Garcia prepāœ…ares sushi meals for delivery.AP

Whatā€™s more, the new sushi robotics have slashed labor costs ā€” while keeping production humming during a time when employeeź©µs were wį€£ary of coming to work because of health and safety concerns.

The robots, which look more like a heavy kitchen appliance thaną¦“ something out of ā€œStar Wars,ā€ šŸ are used to roll nigiri rice balls ā€œdelicately, without crushing the rice grains,ā€ Kanfer says. Heā€™s also invested in maki-making machines that produce sheets of rice of various thickness at a pace of up to 1,300 sheets per hour.

The equipment sales came with a coroā™Œnavirus discount of 15 percent to 20 peršŸ§øcent, or around $12,500 each.

Kissakiā€™s second location is based inside Greek restaurant Nerai, which has resorted to a profit-sharing model during COVID-19 to šŸŒ make use of its three-storyź©µ space. All the restaurants contribute to rent.

The next move, Kanfer said, is the Hamptons. ā€œA lot of our customers are in the Hamptons for the summer. First, because of COVID, and now because of šŸ­the protests. We feel there are more people in the Hamptons than ever ā€” and thatā€™s where we needed to be.ā€

He opened a place in Water Mill, formerly home to Mirkoā€™s. Takeout opens this week and outdoor dining isšŸ· sā™’lated for the end of the month.

ā€œThank God our takeout model worked,ā€ Kanfer said. ā€œIt is definitely a great, positive stoź¦”ry.ā€